Process is different from outcome. The critic above all judges outcome. The great critic’s skill is less in being an expert on process and more about being sensitive and perceptive about outcome and being able to communicate effectively about that.

New Yorkers have lied about bagels for too long. “My theory about people saying (in regards to a NY bagel) “it’s about the water” is not actually about the mineral content of the water…New Yorkers turned that into a proprietary/marketing thing” Read thehunger.site

Two of my fave things chris borrelli writing about Lana Del Rey. Saw her at Aragon back in the day, one of my favorite music moments. chicagotribune.com/entertainment/…

Would kill one for science.

Breaking news: Ryan Pfeiffer out as 16” on Center Culinary Director. thehunger.substack.com/p/ryan-pfeiffe…

A meditation on love, sandwiches and Taylor Swift. “Bartering soulless things to broken souls demands its toll. Up at dawn to take to the heavens, walking dead back to the last 737 out of Fargo in the eventide.” thehunger.substack.com/p/all-too-well

NEW: Kyoten Next Door (Kyōten) offers some of the best omakase in #Chicago, along with a unique opportunity to banter directly with chef-owner Otto Phan. 3.5 stars. thenewchicagoan.com/chicago/kyoten…

This one has everything, a review of The Pixies, a review of Apple product design innovation, musings on culinary theft, and a review of a place you might want to eat at if you can’t get in to the hottest restaurant in Chicago. thehunger.substack.com/p/everything-c…

I wrote about Chicago’s new proposed wage law. Cc Gregory Royal Pratt thehunger.substack.com/p/the-unfair-w…

Debuting my “lost” Alinea restaurant cookbook essay series. First up, how the wine program was born. thehunger.substack.com/p/the-lost-ali…

You continue to enable his bad behavior because you created it in the first place and you don’t see anything wrong with it.

If anyone wants to read why this law is the first of many poorly thought out laws that Brandon Johnson and the irresponsible council will be passing this year, here’s a link. thehunger.substack.com/p/the-unfair-w…

When Pete Wells told Thomas Keller his mushroom tea at Per Se tasted like murky bong water in the New York Times, Keller could have posted a picture on Instagram taking water pipe rips in the kitchen with the caption “Whatever, dude.” thehunger.substack.com/p/failure-to-n…

“Doug Psaltis has always been a P.T. Barnum-esque prevaricator, a trader in truthiness. Those talents covered up his skill for swindlery. After visiting his newest restaurant even that façade has crumbled.” thehunger.substack.com/p/menace-to-pr…

Michelin is probably a joke in your town. A little light reading for the Friday evening commute. Thehunger.site

My old critic photo is hilarious.

A Chicago pizza that’s not on any best of list but should be at the top of most of them. thehunger.substack.com/p/die-for-this…

One of the best baguettes I’ve ever broken in Chicago. thehunger.substack.com/p/cruel-mistre…

Gratitude, by Michael Nagrant open.substack.com/pub/thehunger/…

Greatest Chicago thin crust pizza of all time. thehunger.substack.com/p/a-pizza-for-…